Užice, Kraljevo

First, Cveta Kuća (the house of flowers), the mausoleum where Marshal Tito is buried, in the winter garden where he used to like to relax. Cveta Kuća is part of a museum complex (Musej Historije Yugoslavije) located on a hill in the residential suburb of Dedinje. Three colors are mostly present here: the green of the tropical plants surrounding Tito’s tomb, a large patch of red flowers at the entrance of the mausoleum, and a perfectly blue sky that day. The polished white of the marble tombs and white pebbles complement this harmonious setting. Jovanka Broz, Tito’s wife, died in 2012 and is also buried here, the left of the Comrade President.

Second, the iconic monumnent to Stevan Filipović near the town of Valjevo. Filipović was a young metal worker and Partisan who was captured by Germans in WWII. While he was facing his executioner in May 1942 he shouted an admonition to his fellow Yugoslavs to resist the occupation. The monument on a hill shows a large abstracted figure, made of riveted metal sheets, standing with arms stretched and fists closed in a dramatic posture of determination, resistance and strength.

Third, the gigantic WWII monument built between 1952 and 1979 in the village of Kadinjača near Užice: Memorial Complex Kadinjača. Užice used to hold a special place in socialist Yugoslavia’s historiography since it is the town where in November 1941 a group of 61 partisans, members of the Workers Battalion of Užice Partisan Detachment, held at bay the much more numerous German offensive which was trying to break the liberated territory “Republic of Užice.” This allowed Tito to escape to the nearby Tara mountains.

These partisans in effect sacrificed themselves in order to protect the life of the Partisan leader. Here again the three primary colors dominate the landscape: green meadow grass, blue sky and two circular patched of scarlet sage which no doubt symbolizes the spilled blood of the heroic partisans. The abstract white sculptures which make up the monument, groups of are large concrete sculptures painted white, are stunning and very moving.